Guest Post by Janie Jurkovich
In the summer of 2019, I ventured to Pula, Croatia, a small seaside town in the Mediterranean. It’s part of a peninsula that extends into the Adriatic Sea. To the west is Italy, to the north is Slovenia and Austria, and to the east is Bosnia and Herzogovenia.
People who have traveled in the Mediterranean are often familiar with the more well-known Croatian cities of Dubrovnik and Split, which are further south. Pula is situated in northern Croatia on the Istrian Peninsula. It’s a lovely coastal town filled with tons of charm in a relaxing atmosphere.
I stayed in Croatia for a month and it was quite an experience! I chose to stay at an Airbnb versus a hotel and experience the city more like a ‘local’.
Usually I exchange money ahead in the States but have found that is not a necessity, so I decided to just wing it. I could have exchanged money at the various airports I traveled through to get to Croatia, but I thought it wasn’t a big deal since I was taking Uber.
In hindsight, I would suggest exchanging at least a small amount of currency at an airport just for the sense of security.
Once in Croatia I visited the bank, a money exchange place and even an ATM to obtain the local currency. They use the kuna, which is a little bit shorter than American dollar bills. The currency code that you see at the places of exchange is HRK. Right now, the exchange rate is about 6.73 kunas to one American dollar. So $100 US will get you 673kn. One hundred lipa – which are coins – equal 1 kuna, which are mainly bills. [You can add the lipa to your collection – get it in our tooth fairy coins shop right here.]
There have been special commemorative coins made for up to 25 kuna.
Image via https://www.123rf.com/profile_panama7
I arrived after dark the first night at my Airbnb to a locked gate. Luckily the Uber driver knew to buzz so the owners would let me in! The accommodations were not quite the same as one might expect in the good ‘ol USA.
My best one-word description would be ‘minimalist’. Everything seemed a bit smaller, tighter and not quite as comfortable as us spoiled Americans are used to. But it was new, clean and utilitarian.
The kitchen had a stove, oven, small sink, refrigerator and even a dishwasher. There was a large table for eating or working. The bed was rather hard by American standards but was quickly remedied by the landlord with a foam topper. Like most of Europe, there was no box spring either.
A washing machine was not located in my unit, but some places have them in the kitchen or bathroom, which might seem a bit strange to Americans, but is quite common in Europe. I walked a couple blocks to use a laundromat. Clothes are routinely hung on one of several clotheslines extending all over the property to dry. But hey, it works!
We had a bit of a heat wave the first week and even though the unit had air conditioning, it was not the same as I am used to. One lonely air vent for a one-bedroom apartment didn’t seem adequate but considering most places don’t have any AC at all, this was a plus. The bathroom was small with a low slanted ceiling. Due to limited space, there was no tub, just a shower. My personal hot water tank sat in a corner of the room; a bit weird for Americans.
But it was all newly renovated and quite lovely. Just different.
These are the ‘inconveniences’ you experience when staying in a former Austro-Hungarian massive home. They made 5 separate living quarters out of it! Some of the interior walls were made of stones, and some rooms seemed a bit odd-shaped, but that just added to the charm.
Banks, grocery stores, farmers markets, bakeries and restaurants are all within walking distance. Bus transportation is easily available and inexpensive. There are parks, hairdressers, pharmacies, and even chiropractors on the nearby streets. Downtown has money exchanges, clothing stores, other shops, and a theater. Just about everything you need is available, PLUS centuries-old landmarks such as the Pula Castle (spelled Kastle), the Forum and the Coliseum (built by the Romans). They even have an Aquarium.
My favorite thing about Pula, Croatia was the Promenade along the ocean! I could jog or walk along it while I gazed at the rocks and sea below. Day or night, the Promenade had people on it, whether they were returning from a dip in the ocean, a restaurant or bar somewhere down the road. It had streetlights, too, so you could walk home late at night.
My personal safety was never a concern even when I walked at night by myself. There is something to be said for such an environment!
There were plazas with surrounding restaurants. Outdoor eating venues added to the charm. The food is fresh, healthy and inexpensive. Fish, seafood, chicken, and beef are on the menus. Italian dishes and grilled meats are commonplace. They have salads galore! They put lots of cucumbers and tomatoes on the salads. Interestingly, they put corn on top of tuna salad! It might sound strange, but it tastes great. I would describe it as ‘real’ food, which made me a happy camper. Local wines are on the menus too! Best of all was the soft ice cream in vanilla, chocolate and lemon. Yum!
Lunch for example, would cost about $15 US, including salad, main dish, drink, tip and tax.
Pula is across the Adriatic Sea from Venice and you can take a ferry across. Or you can drive to Italy in about an hour! There are other places to visit too – such as Brijuni Island, Tito’s former retreat. I took the short 15-minute boat ride with a tour. It’s a lovely spot – complete with a small wild animal zoo, café, golf course, museums, bird sanctuary and of course, more beaches.
The people in Pula are warm, engaging and eager to share their culture with you! Many speak at least some English. You can get by without learning Croatian, although making an attempt is always welcome. Many people speak Italian because of its proximity to Italy. For instance, ‘Ciao’ was the word to say for goodbye, not ‘Dovidenja’ as you would say in other parts of Croatia.
One of my favorite things was learning how to make espresso in my apartment. I used a miniature coffee pot to heat water/coffee and then another little pot to heat my cream (or almond milk in my case). It was a morning treat each day!
The atmosphere is pretty casual. People tend to rise later, spend two hours for lunch, and eat their evening meal later in the evening. And people walk everywhere. It was no surprise that few people were overweight. I averaged 3 to 5 miles per day, not counting my jogging!
My take-a-ways from life as a Croatian: enjoy life more, especially the small things; walk more; engage more with others; appreciate the differences in our cultures; and slow down the pace of my life. It can be a much happier journey for all of us if we learn to incorporate these things into our lives!
About the Author
Janie Jurkovich is known as “Janie J” and is the author of three books including “Live the Life You Have Imagined” which she wrote after suddenly getting divorced after 35 years of marriage. Since then she has traveled solo to Pula, Croatia for a month, traveled to Egypt, Germany and across the US, lived the dude ranch life in Wyoming, and competed in a national athletic competition. She founded her own publishing company, Golden Spiral Press and continues to manage a successful real estate business.
Her mission is to encourage women to live their best lives. She writes blog posts, produces videos and creates inspirational poetry which she shares at www.JanieJ.net
